This is an account of two fires that happened a week apart on the hill of Arunachala on the month of august 2005.

Up until 2004 there had never been any serious attempts to stop the deliberate fires, which each summer left the mountain black, and were a major part of the destructive cycle that has left the slopes of the Hill largely deforested. As part of their efforts to reforest the hill, the Mountain of Medicine team had cut many kilometers of firebreaks on the slopes in the winter of 2004/2005. It was not possible to do this work over the entire Mountain, so the lines were strategically placed where fires are known to be at most risk of being started. Fireguards were also employed in the most high-risk areas, and awareness campaigns were conducted locally in conjunction with the Forest Department and other local NGO’s to reduce the risk of fire, as well as to encourage volunteers to join the effort to stop those fires which did start. These measures had proved extremely successful, and the fire season of March to June was seen out without too much incident. A few fires were started, but all were successfully extinguished with minimum damage to the vegetation. It was felt that a corner had truly been turned. However, the expected summer rains failed to materialize, leaving the grasses and scrub incredibly dry. On Saturday August 6th a fire started at the foot of the Hill just behind Sri Ramanasramam. This is an account of what happened next, written by Govinda Bowley who is the director of the Mountain of Medicine project.

Saturday 6th

Saturday was supposed to be a very busy day, working to get as much as possible done on the children’s park ahead of the Collector’s expected Sunday visit. Usual six o’clock start with our crew and the 18 extra casuals we’ve had for the past six weeks. Finishing of some stonework on the tank, digging out pond between two pavilions, general cleaning up stuff. Had things to pick up from both metalworker and carpenter. Home briefly around 10:15 when Cindy knocked on the door to say that there was fire on the Hill.

Immediate reaction was “Shit, I’ve been scared of that happening in this wind”, but still no inkling of just how bad it was going to be. Immediately called Ramakrishna and told him to send everyone. Called both DFO’s for help. Durai was away for the day so didn’t know how to mobilize his volunteers. Fire was around Skandashram path in ARS area so they should already be onto it.

When I reached the fire there were already two fronts. The bulk of my crew were fighting it on the on the slope to the west of and above the path. Forest Dept staff were either there already or arrived very soon after. Some of the Fire Dept were also there. Don’t remember now how long I fought with this bunch. We did pretty well and put out that front. Was periodically checking on how things were looking down below near to the path, and also if it was escaping Northward and then upward. When it seemed that our front was out, sent Pasuraman with ten guys to man the fire line along the ridge. Gave him my cell phone and went below along with a couple of our guys and Forest guards. RK was there along with further Forest crew and a bunch of young volunteers who had arrived. Fire was heading toward Skandashram and again westward up the slope, this time more from the north. Biggest fear was that it would cross the fire line running the length of that ridge to the top. Contact with Pasuraman told us that he was doing OK on that ridge. It was a fire altogether much nastier than the many we’ve fought up to this point. The extra oxygen provided by the wind made it much harder to beat out, and even against the wind the front moved no slower than on a still day. When it went with the wind it was moving frighteningly fast and the only thing to do was get out of the way quick. At times impossible to see with the smoke and difficult to breathe.

At some point, maybe 2ish, went down to get a look at the picture from the road, and to take up food for everyone. The women were constantly ferrying up drinking water so we were generally ok on that front.

On the road saw Kasi on his bike. Flagged him down and asked if he would send his team. He said they were on leave.

From town I could see how it had stopped along the vertical fire line to the north of Skandashram, but a front still burning strongly above and to the west of Skandashram and heading upward. Also appeared to have re-started where we had first been fighting. Took 45 food packets and returned to the site. Sent Palaniammal with half of them to the ridge and the first area, took the rest myself to Skandashram. Pasuraman and the guys on the ridge were also in need of water.

Along path to Skandashram it was burning here and there but not too bad. Asked volunteers to stand at intervals along the path and just make sure it didn’t cross it. Handed out the food as I went. RK was at Skandashram with about fifteen kids. Some of the children were freshly arrived, some had been there since morning and were tiring. As usual most were barefoot. A couple of sadhus were helping which was good to see.

I think around 3ish we had it all stopped around Skandashram. Asked a few of the kids to just wait for another half hour or so to make sure that it didn’t re-ignite anywhere. Started to head back down to see how it was going for the others. Stopped for a bite to eat with the Forest Dept crew who had been fighting the re-occurrence of the first front. About twenty men. The Fire Dept staff were leaving, but as in previous fires they had anyway not done much. Then came the news from Pasuraman that it had crossed the fire line on the ridge.

Was disgusted to see the ARS staff all going home. Maybe that means it was four o’clock at this point. Anyway, having watched (not for the first time this year) maybe 80 people come to help fight the fire in their area they were simply going home now that it had crossed over into the RF, also leaving a number of volunteers keeping vigil in their area against any re-occurrence.

Again went down to the road to see things from a distance. The wind was so strong that I had trouble riding the scooter. Things looked basically contained on the eastern slope. Still burning in places but with nowhere to go. Where it had crossed the ridge it was now coming down the east side of our valley, against the wind, and bounded by two vertical fire lines maybe 200/300 metres apart. Met RK back at the nursery. We were both shattered. I told him to stay at the bottom so that we could have his perspective from below, and to communicate with Pasuraman. Forest staff had gone directly to that fire. Took water and 3 dozen bananas and went to join.

Wind was too strong and no chance to do much, even though it was moving against it. Plenty of people but no use. Thicker growth in that area meant bigger and hotter fire. A counter burn at that point may have saved it, but before we did that it crossed the upper of the two fire lines containing it, and shortly after jumped the next line running north-south. This gave it access to huge new area and meant it could again move with the wind, which it did at terrifying speed. It also meant that if it reached the top, which it would, and crossed one more fire line, then it would have unhindered access to the whole Hill.

We successfully counter-fired the remaining fronts below, up to the stream, but above it was well away. Was starting to get dark. Most of the kids had gone home by now, but amazingly some wanted to go on, and we had to send them home against their will.

RK arrived with more food and water. Forest Dept staff retired, hopefully with more on their way. Ate quickly and set off for the top with Pasuraman and co, ten of us in all. RK, Murugan and a few others were coming up behind us. Already pretty dark and no moon. Stupidly didn’t take any water. Fire very close to top. In the last minutes of light noticed with sadness just how good was the survival of our sapling on upper slopes. Don’t know if any of them will recover from the fire, but it will certainly have taken a very heavy toll. Soon totally dark and all very tired, but progress was nevertheless pretty quick.

When we reached the fire it had contained itself in a gulley and wasn’t such a big front, but was burning too hot to get anywhere near. Sat down to watch and rest. RK and his group had lost the path and turned back, so just the ten of us. Pasupathiraj DFO called from the college asking if he should send some students to help. I expressed doubts about them being able to find a way without knowing the paths, but he was very keen.

It looked like there was a chance that the fire would burn itself out in the gully, surrounded by rocks, but it again escaped upward. We set off to go above the front and counter-fire downward from the fire line circling the top. The problem would be that there was no line to the west to work from until the far ridge, and at this height the stream would not provide any break.

Heading for the top, marveled at Pasuraman’s navigational skills, recognizing individual rocks in the near-total darkness. He got us to the fire line, which made the going much easier. Near the top I picked up a small Arunachala stone and made a little prayer, then put in my pocket for help. Set the counter-burn from the top, and tried to work our way down to cut off the front, but the fire line ran too far to the west so eventually we had to give up the counter-fire and try to beat our way down the front. Very hot, very tired, no water. We tried one last desperate effort to finish it. Many times it looked possible. I went a little bit mad, beating for all I was worth, leading the line and screaming for them to join me, but they were also fighting it behind me and are perhaps not as stupid as me. Finally as I rounded a big rock thinking that was it, and then saw the fire again stretching out below me, I collapsed, utterly destroyed. The guys were some thirty yards behind, and as I lay hyperventilating on that rock feeling very peaceful and happy to go to sleep, I had just enough sense left to realize that I was in no position to go on and couldn’t ask the other’s to. I had reached and gone beyond my physical limit a few times already, but without water at this point I had to admit I was finished.

So I made my way back to the guys and called it off. We sat recovering for some time. Everyone’s feet were pretty chewed up; we were scratched, exhausted and de-hydrated, but thank God otherwise all ok. As we sat there we looked out over the lights dotting the plains below, the guys identifying various villages and roads. There are no major towns out in the direction we were facing, but still there was hardly a space without lights. It’s not obvious by day, but that view by night showed quite starkly just how people cover every inch of available land in this country. All the more reason to protect those pockets of remaining forest.

The way down was slow. I was deeply moved by the care that the guys showed each other, and buy a casual conversation between a few of them about the different species of tree we’d encountered while fighting the fire.

Half way down we met the twenty college students being guided up by a Forest Ranger. They had food and blessed, blessed water for us.

Reached the site at eleven pm, just as another forty Forest Dept staff were on their way up. I had told them over the cell from the Hill that I didn’t advise it, and that their best chance would be early morning before the wind started (9ish usually), but anyway they went.

Arranged with the ACF for the Forest jeep to take the guys the 14km out to their village. They should have been spending Saturday afternoon preparing for a festival on Sunday morning in the village. Instead they spent twelve and a half hours fighting fire over incredible tough terrain, preceded by five and a half hours of physical labour. None of them complained, none of them lost their common sense or their care for each other, and despite sadness at the devastation of the fire, they didn’t lose their sense of humour.

Sunday 7th

Woke up 5:30. Body aching all over, not much sleep. Looked at Hill. Still burning. Not crossed over west ridge, but very close to our fire line across that slope. Whole of the valley between 2nd fire line and top fire line gone.

Packed water bottles and jumped on my bike for the site, thinking to counter-burn along that line, perhaps alone, I didn’t know. Delighted to find a large Forest presence just reaching the fire as I arrived at the nursery. Also again deeply moved to see all of our women already there. They hadn’t gone home till 9 the night before and no one had asked them to come back.

Murugan was on the fire line along with maybe thirty Forest staff. This time the counter burn was fully successful, and within two hours it was finally all over.

After math:

In general very pleased with the response of the Forest Dept who shipped in staff from all over the district and who, when there, didn’t shirk from the work. Some of the kids who came are becoming veterans of this work and I’ve now fought a number of fires alongside them. They’re not always that organized and don’t have the strength of adults but some of them truly deserve a medal for their efforts. Brilliant little guys.

I don’t know how well the college students fared after we came down, but just the fact that they were willing to set up off the Hill in the middle of the night to try is amazing.

Basically pretty furious with the ARS, whose negligence I blame for the fire in the first place. The fire started where so many have started before, and a single well-placed fire-line would have prevented the whole thing. With four people on duty in a relatively small area they also failed to prevent or to catch the culprit. No one extra was sent from the farm to help on the Saturday and on the Sunday nobody came at all. In fifteen years of existence they have not organized any volunteer force for such occasions, nor have they appeared to learn anything about prevention or even strategy in fighting the fire when it starts.

Neither Kasi nor any of his people showed up.

Monday 8th

Held a meeting with all of our staff and also the casual labourers. First of all wanted to thank everyone for their tremendous effort, and second wanted to discuss what we had learned from the whole thing and how we could improve our techniques and strategy for the next time.

Main points;

*We were guilty of complacency because a fire is not normal at this time of year, but weather conditions should have told us that we were very much in danger. Fire-lines should have been checked for any new growth or any dry matter blown onto them. In future fire lines should have the lemongrass cut back on either side of the line so that when the fire reaches the break it is not so hot and less likely to cross. Material removed from the line itself should either be burnt at the time of making the line (as we did on the eastern slope this year) or removed a good distance from the line.

*We learned a lot about what can and cannot be done in such a wind once the fire does start. It’s no use trying to take on the front head on, there’s simply no way one can beat it. If beating, the thing to do is move in a group from one end of the line, trying to shorten the length of the front and eventually close it out.

*Quick thinking and decision making along with improved communication. Early counter-burns would have saved the situation but we were overly hopeful of being able to control the fire without the need for counter-burning. We cannot afford to worry about burning a relatively small patch of the Hill if it means saving a much bigger area.

*An extra cell phone would make a big difference. Sometimes it’s difficult to communicate over the noise of the fire over even fifty metres, let alone when the people are on different areas of the Hill or are out of sight of each other. It is also recommendable to have regular contact with someone at the bottom of the Hill who can see the bigger picture, which is rarely visible from the site of the fire. This should preferably be someone who knows very well the layout of the fire-lines.

*Safety needs to be taken more seriously. We have been lucky so far, but a twisted ankle or broken leg on the wrong side of the wind could be very serious indeed. From now on the rule is; nobody goes alone. Stay always insight of others, preferably in groups of five or more.

*Again on safety; when counter-burning it is essential to be absolutely sure that there is no one inside the area to be burned before setting the fire. Sounds obvious but not so simple under field conditions.

*Nobody sets off without water unless they know that it is being brought soon by others. Dehydration is a potential killer in these situations, and less dramatically we could have carried on fighting for another hour or two if we’d had water that night.

*Need to investigate and try out new technologies. For beaters we still find fresh tree branches to be best, but the rubber mats on bamboo poles do have the advantage of not needing to be constantly replaced. We need to look at the cost of fire extinguishers and whether that’s a viable option. I’m also wandering whether the standard village crop-spray backpack could work just spraying water.

*If, as is likely, the fire requires splitting into different groups to fight it on different fronts, some kind of command structure needs to be in place. This already happens informally, but I made it very clear that Ramakrishna, both big and small Pasuraman and Murugan all now have enough experience as well as a proven level head under difficult situations, and have full power as far as I am concerned to take decisions and act on them if they need to. This is particularly crucial regarding the timing and positioning of counter fires, which may need very quick decisions if they are to succeed. Regarding this the above safety concerns are also crucial and must be well understood.

*Manpower; it was lucky that the fire started at a time when we were at work, something that cannot be guaranteed. Everyone has instructions to come immediately if they see fire, wherever they may be at the time. Those that live locally should also do what they can to bring friends and family members to help. Our people are fit, know the lay of the hill and the positioning of the fire-lines and paths better than anyone, are now experienced and committed, so it is essential that we have as many of them on hand as possible. At the same time we need to do as much outreach work as possible over the coming months and years. It will be good to have a real force of volunteers who we have regular contact with in a variety of activities, but who are also well-trained and motivated for fire fighting.

Monday 15th

An appendix I would have preferred not to have had to write. Today was woken at 5:35 by a phone call from Murugan to say there was again fire on the Hill. This was followed immediately after by a call from Ramakrishna. Murugan said that it was above Mulaipal Thirtham. Got dressed, filled some water bottles and set off. Today Independence Day so was not sure if we could expect the Forest Dept staff to be available, but RK had already called to inform them.

The first thing I did was to take the bike to the town side to get a good look at things. Behind the Temple I met the usual crew of Durai’s volunteers assembling and ready for action. Amazing. None of them with any chapels. I told them to put but they all insisted that they didn’t need. From there I could see the fire almost at the top. Murugan had been wrong about the position. There were already two fronts that I could see, and it was clear that it was also burning on the other side of the ridge, out of sight, above Pancha Mugam.

Went out to the Velore road turn to get a view from there. Was basically pretty despondent about what I saw. There were two or three fronts very close to the top, and a further one or two lower down on the north of the eastern slope. It was the upper ones I was most worried about as they were beyond the fire lines of the eastern slope and also appeared to be burning higher. They would also be of course harder to reach, and once there the terrain would be much steeper.

Returned to back of big Temple from where I would set off. Met Durai and asked him to stay where he could see the whole picture from below, and to keep in contact. As I started to climb I was delighted to be joined by the Forest Dept guys who were already on the case. Reached the lower front around 7:15. Murugan was there with all of the ladies and three of the casual guys. The women were busy beating the fire. Generally I prefer that they stick to carrying water and cutting branches for beating, as I feel that the saris are too much of a risk in the fire, but this time I didn’t interfere. The kids were just arriving as were five or six Forest staff. We had that front out within less than half an hour, and set of for the next one, leaving a small presence to guard against re-occurrence. Venkatesan and myself took a different route from the others and met up with Pasuraman and his bunch of ten guys. They had come down from the top, successfully beating it out all the way down. That left us with two fairly big fronts to deal with and it would be over. The crew I had just left were to the south of us and were well out of sight. Our front was on an incredibly steep slope and was burning from up to down. Call from P. DFO to say that a bunch of students was heading up to join us along with further Forest staff. The fire was heading into a valley that was both very steep and quite thickly forested, thickets of bamboo and a wonderful variety of trees, and with quite thick grass on the floor. Was pretty sure that if it reached that thick growth we wouldn’t have much chance of stopping it. Took a minute to organize the crew and decide which line we would take. We beat a gap in the front and split into two teams of five, each one working away from the other. It was my team that needed to cut it off from the valley; the other was heading up the slope slightly and to the south to meet up with the other big crew. Fifteen minutes of furious beating during which I felt my arms would drop off, and we closed that front. There is no feeling quite like the moment when you actually finish off a front and there’s no fire left. Fantastic. We managed it with perhaps five metres and a few seconds to spare before it reached the thicket. At one point the wind had picked up and I came the closest I’ve come yet to actually catching fire personally, just blisteringly hot and running as fast as I could with eyes blinded by smoke.

This time it was me that was left to stay and watch that nothing re-ignited. Ramakrishna had reached the top with Kanan, and I asked him not to come down to join the fight but to use his perspective from the top to keep us informed of what the fire was up to. Both he and Durai down below seemed to confirm that there was now only a single front, and presumably that was where the entire crew was, the two bunches meeting in the middle. Was difficult to sit still knowing that there was an active fight going on elsewhere but was also nice to just sit and admire the beautiful forest in the valley below me. Ironic how various fires have taken me to areas of the Hill I had not been before, and how in the middle of the destruction of the fire I find myself marveling at the growth that is on the Hill and taking hope that it will once more return to forest. There was a lot of buchanania there that was fruiting so we will have to go back to take that in the coming weeks.

By 8:30 someone came from over the ridge to let me know that it was all over just as the back up forest staff were arriving, along with Ravi ACF. RK from above and the two DFO’s below confirmed this. Fantastic. I had started the day really quite low on hope for our success. It was more a feeling of “well we at least have to try” than any genuine belief that we could stop it. But in a little over two hours we’d done it. Once again huge credit goes to Pasuraman who must have reached the top in double quick time and whose crew did brilliantly to put out everything on their way down. And once again a superb response from the Forest Department on a day that should have been a holiday.

I was joined by the arriving foresters, two of whom we left to watch that area, and then went to join the rest of the crew. Rajamani and Elumalai from the ARS had joined them, which was good to see. Ravi ACF took some photos of everyone all covered in ash up there at the top of the Hill, then we set off back down.

Epilog

Did we improve our techniques as a result of the previous weeks fire? Yes I think so. The communication was better, and our beating method was also more practiced. I think we were working better as teams. At no point either were we short of water, and when it was all over were left with a good surplus. That’s the way it should be. But we also had luck on our side, which is also needed. It was early morning, which meant that the wind was less. It also meant that we were fresher, and we didn’t have the sun on our heads as well as the fire in our faces, so could fight harder without tiring. Despite the talk of counter-burning after the last fire, the position of the fire lines in relation to this fire did not leave it as an option, so we were thankful to succeed without it.

Depressing though they were there are still a number of positives to take from these two fires. We had thought that we had successfully completed a first fire-free year in generations, and if we had had any rain at all in July or August that that would have remained the case. However, it is still perhaps only 10% of the Hill that has been burned, if that, and when one compares this to previous years, that could be considered a huge achievement. We are also now developing an ever-growing coalition of fire fighters, whose experience and efficiency grows with each fire. I firmly believe also that each time a fire is successfully extinguished by this coalition then a strong message is sent out. Each of the children or students who volunteers is sure to be telling their friends about it the next day, and the word gets out that something that was once taken for granted, that every summer the Hill ‘just burns’, is no longer the case.